Let's Go Way Back... (to 2001?)

I had occasion to study high resolution photos of the prototype Crossfire and noticed something I liked - the center caps on the wheels. 

As is usually the case when a prototype goes into production, there are things that do not make the transition.  There are many things on the prototype that didn't make it to the production car.  Notwithstanding, it's still impressive to see how true to the original design the final car remained.

I sat one night and did some hunting around to find suitable parts that I might use to recapture the design of those original center caps.  They appeared to be a large socket cap screw recessed into the center of the cap.  I grabbed one of the standard caps and took some measures, extrapolated the dimensions of the prototype caps, and assembled some parts I thought would come very close to reproducing the look of the center caps on the prototype.  I played with a photo editing program to see what it might look like on my car:

I did have to accept the fact that the prototype center caps are dished and have no raised center section like the production caps.  I also make a decision not to attempt to replicate the dimples that mark each spoke near the outside rim of the center caps.  That would require a level of precision to embed little button-head screws in a perfect circle.  I didn't see myself pulling that off.  At any rate, the factory caps have an indentation that attempts to create that effect so I am sticking with that.

In terms of the materials and assembly, there were two things that had to be taken into account.  I needed parts that would be light, would take paint very well, and would not corrode.  I concluded that since this was a purely cosmetic effort, plastic would be appropriate, and, once painted, should have the same finish as the rest of the center cap.  As long as some tire technician didn't take an Allen wrench to them, it would be no problem!

Here's the list of parts I came up with.  As I have so often done when fabricating things from scratch, I paid McMaster-Carr a visit and sourced everything except the original center caps from them.

Part	Description	Qty	Picture
Factory Center Cap	Stock Ronal Cap	4
Hex Lock Speed Nut	Galvanized Stl, 5/8"-11 Screw Sz, 15/16" W, 0.223" H	4
Nylon Socket Head Cap Screw	5/8"-11 Thread, 1-1/2" Length, Off-White	4

Before assembly of the pieces, I painted the parts with a two-part treatment.  First a color coat using a carefully selected silver that matches the color of the wheels.

First the matching silver to the wheels and center cap, making sure that the socket of the screw is well painted and everything has several thin coats.  Next I apply a clear-coat to give it the same luster as the wheels. 

These parts are set aside to dry for a week.  That gives them enough time to harden and fuse together.  This prevents them from getting spoiled in handling during assembly later.

The Chrysler logo on the center of the cap needs to be removed.  Using a jewelers flat-head screw driver, I carefully got under the very edge of the center emblem being careful not to scratch any part of the center cap finish. 

With the edge lifted, the glue starts to give way and I got my fingers under the center by prying it up with my fingers.  Don't use tools because the surface underneath the emblem must not be scratched.

The center of the cap is marked by the molding injection point. 

I used that as a landmark and using a spate bit, drilled a 5/8" hole making sure it was dead center.  I do not want to introduce wheel imbalance with this project! 

 

I drilled very slowly, first scoring the cap to make sure the hole was centered, then letting the bit slowly cut the hoe, while holding the cap to prevent spinning.

Then, using penetrating oil, I carefully removed the glue that once held the center piece in place, and then cleaned out the recess completely.

Next, I retrieved the painted socket head cap screws, I test fitted them into the holes.  I put the retaining nut on and marked the screw for cutting. 

I cut the screw off leaving just enough to allow threading on the nut and enough threads to allow it to be made tight.

Next I reinstalled the nut and screw, and applied some thread locking compound to prevent the retaining nut from coming loose.

The results approximate the look of the original prototype wheel caps. 

The socket head cap nuts are not as large as the prototype ones, but I can revisit that should I manage to find some that large!